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Old 08-26-2010, 03:28 PM   #201 (permalink)
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Roll center seems lower than preferred. Tough to move it with a track bar though. Looks great otherwise.
I have some room to play, what would raise the roll center?
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Old 08-26-2010, 09:37 PM   #202 (permalink)
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Raising both pivot points of the panhard, if I'm not mistaken.

(mine is too low, and it tends to be noticable in cornering sometimes)
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Old 08-27-2010, 06:08 AM   #203 (permalink)
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Got a pretty sick Dokata there dont ya
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Old 08-27-2010, 07:32 AM   #204 (permalink)
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Is that Portuguese?
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Old 08-27-2010, 08:58 AM   #205 (permalink)
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Is that Portuguese?
Finnish
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Old 09-03-2010, 09:40 AM   #206 (permalink)
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I tacked the brackets in place to get real-life numbers and this is where I am at.

It is setup with 8" separation at both ends (I have ability to adjust this)

Axle end lower link mount is at the centerline of the axle

Upper link mount is slightly forward of the lower link mount at the frame, I can adjust this also.

Roll center went down, this was figured with the panhard behind the axle and under the upper link. Once I mount my steering box, I may be able to fit it in front of the axle to make it longer.



Kevin

Last edited by NorCal_Dakota; 09-03-2010 at 09:43 AM.
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Old 09-03-2010, 03:37 PM   #207 (permalink)
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Great job Kevin, your project is looking great! Looking forward to wheeling with you some day. My ram 2500 on 37's should be able to follow you around Hollister some day, as soon as I get out of this wheelchair and back on my feet. I will talk to you soon.

Craig
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Old 10-22-2010, 03:38 AM   #208 (permalink)
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Just some thoughts about a possible rear axle to match your front Waggy axle. I have been told and I have confirmed the idea, that mid nineties and up Honda Passports/Isuzu Rodeos (same car) have Dana 44 rear axles. I looked when I was at a pick a part last and sure enough, every one of them has a Dana 44. Most have disc brakes and all have the 6 x 5.5 lug nut patten to match your front axle. I know the front Waggy axle is 60.5" WMS to WMS, I think the Rodeo/Passport Dana 44 is 61.5". I too am putting a Waggy front axle on my 'Kota. I might keep my Chrys 8.25 rear or swap out to something else later. Just not sure yet.
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Old 10-22-2010, 11:09 AM   #209 (permalink)
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Just some thoughts about a possible rear axle to match your front Waggy axle. I have been told and I have confirmed the idea, that mid nineties and up Honda Passports/Isuzu Rodeos (same car) have Dana 44 rear axles. I looked when I was at a pick a part last and sure enough, every one of them has a Dana 44. Most have disc brakes and all have the 6 x 5.5 lug nut patten to match your front axle. I know the front Waggy axle is 60.5" WMS to WMS, I think the Rodeo/Passport Dana 44 is 61.5". I too am putting a Waggy front axle on my 'Kota. I might keep my Chrys 8.25 rear or swap out to something else later. Just not sure yet.
buddy of mine has a rodeo axle its a disc, D44 but there are some quirks you need to do your research on them before just going and picking one up.
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Old 10-23-2010, 08:57 AM   #210 (permalink)
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whats up with that pinion angle dude? looks like you need to build a lower front hanger. noticed you've put alot work into this thing but still no front drive line? maybe i missed something....planning on linking it intead? nice truck though.
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Old 10-24-2010, 02:30 AM   #211 (permalink)
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buddy of mine has a rodeo axle its a disc, D44 but there are some quirks you need to do your research on them before just going and picking one up.
Right, there are some quirks. Like the electronic speedo sensor in the top of the diff housing and the weird yoke attached to the pinion. The speedo sensor can't be much different than the ones in our chrysler axles, but I won't know till I tear one apart. The yoke on the other hand, I know it can be swapped out for the same yoke in out 8.25 axles since it is a common pinion type that is able to take common Spicer yokes. Any more research would require me taking one of these "Dana sold these axles to an import car maker" axles and seeing things for myself. Check out this website:

http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticl...les/index.html

Like I said, it's a possible candidate. Is it as strong if not stronger than the Chrysler 8.25 I have now.... I don't know that yet. I hear they're comparable, so it a lateral upgrade.
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Old 10-25-2010, 05:50 PM   #212 (permalink)
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whats up with that pinion angle dude? looks like you need to build a lower front hanger. noticed you've put alot work into this thing but still no front drive line? maybe i missed something....planning on linking it intead? nice truck though.
It was on leafs, then I went to lower and stretch it and never made it to the point of setting the caster before I decided to link it instead.

I have a square shaft for the front, but broke the axle side and driverside yoke at full droop on separate occasions. I am assuming due to me grinding for clearance and still binding at full droop. Part of the reason for the stretch/lower was for a better driveline angle

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Old 10-29-2010, 11:41 AM   #213 (permalink)
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heres my 99 dak

44hp front dana 60 rear. four link front hydro assist.arbs 513s. 38.5 boggers http://i896.photobucket.com/albums/a...Picture013.jpg
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Old 11-03-2010, 09:17 AM   #214 (permalink)
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44hp front dana 60 rear. four link front hydro assist.arbs 513s. 38.5 boggers http://i896.photobucket.com/albums/a...Picture013.jpg
Nice, have any more pictures showing the steering?
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Old 11-03-2010, 09:25 AM   #215 (permalink)
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I mocked up the axle to figure out of much frame I needed to keep to remount the steering box. I cut the frame more then in this picture, basically right behind the stock motor mounts.



The extension will be plated top/bottom/inside with 3/16" and another plate that goes from the body mount by the cab to the front of the truck.

The flat plate across the top was just to hold it square. Before I plate the sides I need to put the axle back under and finalize steering box location so I can sleeve the mounting holes before plating.






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Old 11-03-2010, 06:04 PM   #216 (permalink)
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so how do you people get by with putting the third (upper) link on the passenger side? with this setup, when the driver's side droops and the passenger side stuffs, that upper link will make the pinion rotate downward, increasing the driveshaft angle. the combination of the drooping driver's side and the downward rotation of the pinion seems like it would create a driveshaft angle too severe for any u-joint.

no?
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Old 11-04-2010, 09:44 AM   #217 (permalink)
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Nice, have any more pictures showing the steering?
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Old 11-04-2010, 10:15 AM   #218 (permalink)
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so how do you people get by with putting the third (upper) link on the passenger side? with this setup, when the driver's side droops and the passenger side stuffs, that upper link will make the pinion rotate downward, increasing the driveshaft angle. the combination of the drooping driver's side and the downward rotation of the pinion seems like it would create a driveshaft angle too severe for any u-joint.

no?
Isn't the whole idea of a 3 link that the pinion angle doesn't (or hardly) change?

His 3 link setup is quite a bit different than your y-link setup.
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Old 12-04-2010, 03:18 PM   #219 (permalink)
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Good Job

Looking great Kevin! Have you wheeled it much yet? Whats next on your to do list?
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Old 12-05-2010, 02:34 AM   #220 (permalink)
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so how do you people get by with putting the third (upper) link on the passenger side? with this setup, when the driver's side droops and the passenger side stuffs, that upper link will make the pinion rotate downward, increasing the driveshaft angle. the combination of the drooping driver's side and the downward rotation of the pinion seems like it would create a driveshaft angle too severe for any u-joint.

no?
the upper link would have to have some type of slip or adjustment in it in order for the pinion to move around. the driveline and slip will stay basically in the same spot throughout the entire cycle of the suspension.
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Old 12-05-2010, 11:43 AM   #221 (permalink)
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i also have a quesion. are you going to continue to run a steering box or go full hydro? i would make your panhard bar another foot longer and moved the upper link back on the axle end and have the panhard bar in front of it lower and longer. your gunna a good amount of bump steer.
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Old 12-05-2010, 02:06 PM   #222 (permalink)
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i also have a quesion. are you going to continue to run a steering box or go full hydro? i would make your panhard bar another foot longer and moved the upper link back on the axle end and have the panhard bar in front of it lower and longer. your gunna a good amount of bump steer.
I am keeping the steering box. I don't have the axle under the truck anymore so I can finish the frame and motor mount but will see if I have room to lengthen the panhard.

What makes you think it will have bumpsteer? Difference in length between pan hard and the draglink?
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Old 12-05-2010, 06:50 PM   #223 (permalink)
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yes. or at least thats what i've always heard (and i've been known to be wrong from time to time).

but i have bumpsteer on my current setup and i believe its because the track bar is about 5 inches shorter than the drag link. they're at the same angle, just not the same length. and there's been a couple times when i've been flexed hard and couldn't turn the steering one way or the other because of bumpsteer.

in this pic you can see how the track bar is shorter than the drag link. the track bar is brown. drag link is black. can easily see how they mount in different places. but they mount in nearly the same place on the driver's side. i believe this is the cause of my bumpsteer.
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Old 12-06-2010, 10:55 AM   #224 (permalink)
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keep the the panhard as long and as flat as you can get it but also you want it parallel with the draglink. i hate to say it but you wont like how it drives.



what are the length of all your links? if i were you i would take that axle end panhard mount and move it right in front of the joint on the axle end next to the "C". just make sure when you steer it it will clear the bracket. then take the upper link bracket at the axle end and rotate it back on the axle tube so the panhard can be in front of it rather then behind. depending on whether you have a forward swing or standard box just make the panhard mount on the frame stick out a little further to get some more length out of it but still so you can clear a shock/bumps and what not.
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Old 12-06-2010, 11:22 AM   #225 (permalink)
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Kyle is right. Rotate your upper link mount back and run the panhard infront of the tower. This will allow you to get about 6" more length out of your panhard. As far as getting it flat, that's not such a huge deal as getting it parallel with the draglink, my setup itsnt super flat at ride height, but they are damn near perfectly parallel. Take a look at my build in the taco section, as well as erikB and addicted offroads, I'll tell you to look at Pauls build but that could take weeks to find any actual info.

Btw, I have ZERO bump steer, and it drives tits at 75 and takes the curves really well too.
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